And then there was an empty 33G long tank!

cichlid-gal 2013-09-24, 17:12

OK...looking for input and ideas folks. With the demise of my 72G bowfront tank (alas) I have decided to use it's stand for my 33G long tank and start a new project. I have had this 33G long tank in the wings and have been planning to set up a planted tank with it. If I get this done this would be my first "truly" planted tank (with lots of plants not just sporadic stuff and all low maintenance) preferably without CO2.

I have read the threads on the soil substrate tanks as well as spent some time looking at other forums (like PlantedTank) for ideas and information. I'm still not sure which way to go on the substrate.

Questions:
From a maintenance standpoint, how easy is it to work with the soil su bstrate?

I was thinking if I did this I would want to cover the soil with something else like sand. Does that create more problems when planting...i.e. disturbing the layers, etc.?

It's now getting down to the low 40's at night here....is that too cold for the two week soil prep outside or does it make a difference? I read some things about outside temps so I'm a little confused.

Has anyone used Eco-complete? Is this a good alternative to the soil method?

I have that big piece of manzanita wood that came out of the 155G tank along with some seiryu stones for landscaping basics. I will need ALL plants as I really don't have any for the tank. I was thinking of rooting a plant like the miniature peace lily onto the wood, say right above water level and letting the roots hang down into the water.

I would like to stock some fish in the tank eventually when it is stable and ready. I like CPD's (Danio margaritatus), blue tetras (Boehlkea fredcochui), Ryan's beautiful strawberry bettas (Betta albimarginata), and rainbow fish (Melanotaenia) so far... Laughing

I'm looking for something that is not a cichlid. I would prefer a CARES fish as that is what I like to keep but I also like these others. There are a couple of Melantoaenia that are CARES species. I just don't know anything about livebearers really and because the tank is not that big, I don't know about stocking them.

So..here's the tank...please feel free to share ideas and thoughts with me. I would welcome them.

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Lamental Jester 2013-09-24, 18:26

Hi Cichlid-gal! Excited to hear you're considering getting into plants! Your 33 long should work great for it since the light source will be closer to the plants.

For soil substrate, if done properly and has settled, it would require very little maintenance and water changes (I haven't changed the water in mine for months). For soil prepping, I just did it all indoors with a large plastic bin, you can even do all the prep work in the tank itself since it's already drained. In terms of capping, I would recommend sand or small gravel (I used turface), the layers will get disturbed eventually no matter what you do though. Soil tanks aren't really recommended if you think you'll be moving the plants around a lot. Also, if you are gonna so soil, make sure your tank is heavily planted, otherwise all of those excess nutrients can make it unbalanced.

Here's the thread I did on my first dirted tank: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

pbmax 2013-09-24, 18:40

Lamental Jester wrote:Also, if you are gonna do soil, make sure your tank is heavily planted, otherwise all of those excess nutrients can make it unbalanced.

Indeed. But also, while a properly setup Walstad easily tolerates less frequent water changes, heavily planting from the start is CRITICAL for this. It's also recommended to have floating plants to help process the water on top of the root feeders.

It's important to distinguish the Walstad method (miracle-gro organic choice potting mix capped with larger grain sand like pool filter sand and heavily planted with primarily root-feeders along with some floating plants to keep the water clean, an eco-system in a tank approach with minimal water changes) from other dirt tank approaches. Dirt makes plants grow better - roots love nutrients. But just throwing dirt in a tank doesn't make it a Walstad.

Eco complete is like Flourite in that it has some micro nutrients in it, but mostly it provides surface area for nutrient collection and to keep roots oxygenated. You'll still have to use a substrate fertilizer of some sort (root tabs) to get good root feeder growth. It's better than sand or gravel for plants, but doesn't have the nutrients dirt does. That said, it's much less of a mess to add and remove plants from an eco-complete or flourite tank than it is from a dirt tank. Wink

I have a walstad and a couple of eco-complete tanks and they're all beautiful, but my nicest tank has eco-complete in it. My walstad is a chaotic jungle. Spot On

A dirt tank is a pain to setup initially. Eco complete is a ton easier to setup - but you have to fertilize it fairly regularly with root tabs to get above average growth.

BallardFishGuy 2013-09-24, 18:41

Oh wow that 33g long looks scrumptious! I like those dimensions! Well here is my two cents..

I have two planted tanks, one low tech DIY co2 in my Bio-Cube and the other is my 29g Metaframe High tech planted tank. I run Eco-Complete (black) in my bio-cube and Safe-T-Sorb (waiting for Roy to chime in) in my Metaframe tanks.

I'm really happy with both substates and both seem to do working for me. That being said the Eco-Complete is ready to go, no washing and no ferts needed for the substate. The Safe-T-Sorb is very cheap but needs lots of cleaning/washing before using and you will need to figure that it needs some root tabs or as I did add Osmocote Plus to it. Also with STS you may love or not love the color, just look at Roy's tanks for an idea of color, it looks natural to me but it's not for everyone. With Eco-Complete you can choice your color up front.

And you know you're at the top of my list for Strawberry betas....they are finally getting bigger. It's true what I read about them being a slow grower, no wonder the cost was high on them!

pbmax 2013-09-24, 18:44

Having done both (turface and safe-t-sorb as well as eco-complete), I'll never do another safe-t-sorb or turface tank. That stuff is awful... Mad

BallardFishGuy 2013-09-24, 18:46

pbmax wrote:Having done both (turface and safe-t-sorb as well as eco-complete), I'll never do another safe-t-sorb or turface tank. That stuff is awful...

Roy is the STS whisper and should chime in, he has more experience with it than anyone I know and his tanks are amazing!!! I hear you though:affraid:

pbmax 2013-09-24, 18:51

My turface tank is very low maintenance and gorgeous, but it was a giant pain to setup and the plants don't grow as well as they do in my eco-complete tanks. My safe-t-sorb tank did a total face plant and was nothing but a mess from the get go. Maybe I just got a bad batch? It was harder to clean than turface was too.

I admit, I'm a slacker and I don't use root tabs in my eco complete as I should. I still get decent growth, however, thanks to the age of the tanks (nutrient buildup).

One nice thing about eco complete over dirt is you don't have to worry about the PH. Eco complete will bump the PH up slightly, which generally isn't an issue. Dirt (non-mineralized soil, that is) like in a walstad or aquasoil will pump out so much ammonia it can cause PH crashes. I fought this early on with my Walstad, but not before it took a bunch of fish down with it. I didn't expect the profound negative effect on PH that dirt would have.

DMD123 2013-09-24, 18:55

Cool looking set up.

BallardFishGuy 2013-09-24, 18:56

Yeah I'm wondering if my sudden growth of uncontrollable Hair Algae is maybe me needing to add some ferts to my eco-complete substrate...anyway these are good things for Cichlid-gal to think about!

Lamental Jester 2013-09-24, 19:02

Yeah, that's one thing about the Walstad setup to watch out for, the ammonia build up in the beginning, that's why I soaked the soil first and let it sit for a couple weeks while mixing it around everynow and then, from what I read, doing that will release a lot of the ammonia. What I also read is that the plants love the ammonia, so when I set it up I only did one or two water changes and let it sit for a little over a week to let the plants eat up whatever ammonia was left, then I put the fish in. Didn't have any fish losses.

pbmax 2013-09-24, 19:24

Lamental Jester wrote:Yeah, that's one thing about the Walstad setup to watch out for, the ammonia build up in the beginning, that's why I soaked the soil first and let it sit for a couple weeks while mixing it around everynow and then, from what I read, doing that will release a lot of the ammonia. What I also read is that the plants love the ammonia, so when I set it up I only did one or two water changes and let it sit for a little over a week to let the plants eat up whatever ammonia was left, then I put the fish in. Didn't have any fish losses.

All very good points. I did that too (let it soak for weeks), but it was months after setup that it crashed on me.

Lamental Jester 2013-09-24, 19:48

Hmmmm, very strange... No crashes with mine scratch

sea1 2013-09-24, 20:36

I have Eco Complete over mineralized top soil (multiple cycles of wet/dry) on both of my tanks. My 10 gallon at work only has simple plants (crypts, moss, anubias) but it's the nicest tank in terms of growth that I've ever had. That said, it doesn't even start to compare to the real planted tanks that folks have. The same setup in a larger ~25 gallon tank at home isn't anything to write home about. Anyone with a 'real' planted tank would look at that tank and ask why even bother attempting a nice substrate because it definitely doesn't look like a nice planted tank.

Anthraxx 2013-09-24, 20:45

i realize this may be a bit off, but as i understand it (from what i read at least) you want to use as basic of top soil as you can. a lot of the potting/organic mixes can have all sorts of gels and other chems in them to either fertilize the plants or hold more water. also going to be hard to minerilize the soil given the current weather conditions. i know you can bake it to avoid this but o man is that a bad idea! (i know from experience) anyways GL with your plants! cant wait to see the results. always love seeing your tanks cichlid-gal. us african lovers gotta stick together Razz

pbmax 2013-09-24, 20:47

There's no shame in not having a "real" planted tank. Smile

ADA style (aquascaped) tanks require a decent amount of time, effort, and money to setup, and the maintenance can be pretty nasty too.

Lamental Jester 2013-09-24, 21:16

Anthraxx wrote:i realize this may be a bit off, but as i understand it (from what i read at least) you want to use as basic of top soil as you can. a lot of the potting/organic mixes can have all sorts of gels and other chems in them to either fertilize the plants or hold more water.

That's the purpose of using organic soils, usually they don't have those gels and stuff. I just used the stuff recommended by Diana Walstad

pbmax wrote:There's no shame in not having a "real" planted tank. :)ADA style (aquascaped) tanks require a decent amount of time, effort, and money to setup, and the maintenance can be pretty nasty too.

Here here

Pneumostome 2013-09-24, 21:47

I've been thinking about setting up a tank using dirt too; I had didn't know about the ammonia or presoaking though!

I found this really detailed article about making mineralized top soil. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Do I understand that Walstad tanks just use the Miracle-Gro organic choice potting mix - without being mineralized? If anyone has good links about setting up Walstad style I would sure appreciate it. Smile

pbmax 2013-09-24, 22:04

Pneumostome wrote:
Do I understand that Walstad tanks just use the Miracle-Gro organic choice potting mix - without being mineralized?

That's correct - the stuff right out of the bag, soaked, with the floaty bits skimmed off, then a sand cap on top of it. You don't have to worry about ammonia from mineralized soil since most of the organics have been processed already.

Pneumostome 2013-09-24, 22:15

Ah I see! Thanks for explaining that Very Happy

cichlid-gal 2013-09-24, 22:29

All of you...thank you so much for all the input on this. Being who I am and knowing myself...after reading everything you guys (and gals) have shared...I think the Eco-complete would be the best choice for me. I tend to be a "reorganizer" so given some of the above comments I think that I would do better with a substrate that would allow me some options for moving plants around and rearranging things (maybe thats a woman thing). OK...question #1 done...for me, the Eco substate.

OH...equipment. I didn't address this. Here's what I have available. An Eheim 2217, a Rena XP3, Aquaclear HOB's either 110 or 70's (but I think I'd like to stay away from HOB's in this tank). Does anyone use Lilypipes for intake/output? Heater can be intank or inline. Any recommendations? Lids...I will be covering one side and leaving one side open. I know I'll have a little more evaporation but I have a slight idea for a bit of riparium going on...yeah.

So on to question #2 (#3 since I added equipment)...PLANTS. No CO2..but I would love to have as many types of plants as I can. I read that one variety of plant per 4 sq inches is how I should plant (if I understood that correctly). What do you all recommend? Should I start out less heavily planted in case I have problems or more heavily planted. And I understand the graduations of height and such. Would love a link or point in the right direction for varieties recommended for beginners...i.e. best choices and then I can chose. Or if I'm being too lazy just tell me and send me searching... whistle

pbmax 2013-09-24, 22:53

How much and what kind of light do you plan to put over it? If you're skipping CO2 you definitely want to keep the light below the extreme level.

There's a recent thread on low-light plants which can really be considered beginner plants. Personally, I think a different variety every 4 square inches is a bit nutty...

What you should do is go over the plant selections, do some research on how big they get and what kind they are - root feeders, stem plants, etc., and come up with a layout.

And then you should think about how you're going to feed these plants - root tabs, water column ferts, etc.

fishNAbowl 2013-09-24, 23:03

cichlid-gal wrote:OK...looking for input and ideas folks. With the demise of my 72G bowfront tank (alas) I have decided to use it's stand for my 33G long tank and start a new project. I have had this 33G long tank in the wings and have been planning to set up a planted tank with it. If I get this done this would be my first "truly" planted tank (with lots of plants not just sporadic stuff and all low maintenance) preferably without CO2.

I have read the threads on the soil substrate tanks as well as spent some time looking at other forums (like PlantedTank) for ideas and information. I'm still not sure which way to go on the substrate.

Questions:
From a maintenance standpoint, how easy is it to work with the soil su bstrate?

I was thinking if I did this I would want to cover the soil with something else like sand. Does that create more problems when planting...i.e. disturbing the layers, etc.?

It's now getting down to the low 40's at night here....is that too cold for the two week soil prep outside or does it make a difference? I read some things about outside temps so I'm a little confused.

Has anyone used Eco-complete? Is this a good alternative to the soil method?

I have that big piece of manzanita wood that came out of the 155G tank along with some seiryu stones for landscaping basics. I will need ALL plants as I really don't have any for the tank. I was thinking of rooting a plant like the miniature peace lily onto the wood, say right above water level and letting the roots hang down into the water.

I would like to stock some fish in the tank eventually when it is stable and ready. I like CPD's (Danio margaritatus), blue tetras (Boehlkea fredcochui), Ryan's beautiful strawberry bettas (Betta albimarginata), and rainbow fish (Melanotaenia) so far... I'm looking for something that is not a cichlid. I would prefer a CARES fish as that is what I like to keep but I also like these others. There are a couple of Melantoaenia that are CARES species. I just don't know anything about livebearers really and because the tank is not that big, I don't know about stocking them.

So..here's the tank...please feel free to share ideas and thoughts with me. I would welcome them.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I think if you have an interest in the Walstad method a good place to try is a smaller tank like this 33L. My experience with dirt tanks is a "set it & forget it" system. Meaning you will want a clear idea of how you want to set it up (what plants are going where) because disruption of the substrate should be kept minimal.

The sand cap is to help keep the dirt down & provide you leeway from making a debris cloud when you plant. Also the barrier helps keep fish from disturbing the dirt as well.

I like Eco complete and Fluorite substrates. I can go from unplanted, to planted using the same substrate. I am able to change my plants and decor around easily. Don't know about you but I have a tendency to redesign every few months. I get good growth without using root tabs, I get awesome growth using root tabs.

Dirt tanks takes work to set up but is a fun project.

cichlid-gal 2013-09-24, 23:49

pbmax wrote:How much and what kind of light do you plan to put over it? If you're skipping CO2 you definitely want to keep the light below the extreme level.

There's a recent thread on low-light plants which can really be considered beginner plants. Personally, I think a different variety every 4 square inches is a bit nutty...

What you should do is go over the plant selections, do some research on how big they get and what kind they are - root feeders, stem plants, etc., and come up with a layout.

And then you should think about how you're going to feed these plants - root tabs, water column ferts, etc.

My lighting plan was to use the Finnex Ray2 that I have on the 155G tank on the 33G but after seeing it in action I was thinking it might be too bright of a light for the 33G tank. So I'm looking for options or whether the Finnex is the best option. Again, not sure.

fishNAbowl 2013-09-25, 00:41

cichlid-gal wrote:
pbmax wrote:How much and what kind of light do you plan to put over it? If you're skipping CO2 you definitely want to keep the light below the extreme level.

There's a recent thread on low-light plants which can really be considered beginner plants. Personally, I think a different variety every 4 square inches is a bit nutty...

What you should do is go over the plant selections, do some research on how big they get and what kind they are - root feeders, stem plants, etc., and come up with a layout.

And then you should think about how you're going to feed these plants - root tabs, water column ferts, etc.
My lighting plan was to use the Finnex Ray2 that I have on the 155G tank on the 33G but after seeing it in action I was thinking it might be too bright of a light for the 33G tank. So I'm looking for options or whether the Finnex is the best option. Again, not sure.

That's probably what I would use too. I would prepare to be able to raise the light up or get a lot of floating plants. Lighting is a balance like the rest of an aquatic ecosystem. You want to start off with a bit less until the plants mature. Then increase lighting over time. This also can be controlled with a timer.

Your Ray2 will probably be enough light on that 33L to grow just about any plant you wish...

cichlid-gal 2013-09-25, 00:45

I also have a 48" Current Satellite LED plus

**Aquarium Co-Op** 2013-09-25, 00:47

I actually think the ray 2, will be too much light on that 33 long.

fishNAbowl 2013-09-25, 00:57

Aquarium Co-Op wrote:I actually think the ray 2, will be too much light on that 33 long.

You have a point. I have the 36" on a 30g. I've had to raise the light 6 inches and use Salvinia (floating fern) to block out some of the light. Today I lowered the light back onto its legs to see what happens. Hoping there is enough plants to suck up all the Ray's......rays

**Aquarium Co-Op** 2013-09-25, 00:59

Yeah, it's all about how balanced the aquarium is with the plants. I've seen ray2s used on shallow tanks. With insane nice red plants etc. But I think in the long run it's easier to use less light if it's not going to be a really heavily aquascaped tank.

cichlid-gal 2013-09-25, 10:09

Aquarium Co-Op wrote:Yeah, it's all about how balanced the aquarium is with the plants. I've seen ray2s used on shallow tanks. With insane nice red plants etc. But I think in the long run it's easier to use less light if it's not going to be a really heavily aquascaped tank.

OK...then I think I will use the Current Satellite and leave the Finnex on the 155G tank. The Current lighting can be adjusted to some degree so hopefully that will work better.

What about filtration? I would think the Eheim 2217 would be enough on the tank with plants and a few fish. So setup so far is:

Eco-complete substrate
Eheim 2217 canister (still looking at lilypipes)
In line 200W heater
Current led Plus 48" light

Plants I like:
red root floaters and water lettuce
bronze cryptocoryne and green cryptocoryne
amazon swords
dwarf sagittaria
anubias

Some plants I've found on plant sites that I like:
Hydrocotyle tripartita
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Limnophila hippuridoides
ludwigia sp.
Eleocharis sp.

Any input on these? or experiences I should know about? Thanks Smile

DMD123 2013-09-25, 10:31

The Eheim 2217 is more than enough filter for your planted tank. Good choice to do the in line heater with that set up.

pbmax 2013-09-25, 11:26

cichlid-gal wrote:
Plants I like:
red root floaters and water lettuce
bronze cryptocoryne and green cryptocoryne
amazon swords
dwarf sagittaria
anubias

Some plants I've found on plant sites that I like:
Hydrocotyle tripartita
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Limnophila hippuridoides
ludwigia sp.
Eleocharis sp.

Any input on these? or experiences I should know about? Thanks

I would pass on the red root floater for now. While it's pretty, it doesn't grow nearly as quickly as water lettuce and will likely be outcompeted by it. Floating plants thrive in still water, but RRF exemplifies this more than most.

I use water lettuce in all of my tanks as a natural filtration mechanism. Every time you toss it out you're tossing out unused nitrates and other stuff - everyone wins! cheers

It does grow fairly quickly, especially when it reaches critical mass, but it's a snap to toss.

Amazon swords get BIG - be prepared to have it totally take over a chunk of your tank, shading everything around it. They will grow taller than your tank is high and wider than it is deep. I kept them in 10g tanks for a while affraid

not any more Wink

Crypts are always a good pick - slow and steady growers and they will slowly fill out via underground runners. But it'll take a while for them to reach full size, so plant a lot to begin with.

S. subulata (dwarf sags) will take off in all directions - they're a great starter plant and will be pretty easy to maintain with eco-complete (just yank them out when you have too many). They get tall in my walstad (12"), but stay pretty short in other tanks (less than 6").

I've kept ludwigia repens narrow-leaf for many years now - it's a beautiful stem plant and extremely resilient. Be prepared for constant maintenance though - especially if you're fertilizing the water column. You'll be clipping and replanting it on a fairly regular basis.

cichlid-gal 2013-09-25, 11:49

Thank you PBmax...you are a wealth of helpful information. I really really appreciate all this help and input.

Do you recommend waiting a period before adding fish just for growing out plants and getting a planted tank under your belt without the fish in there or does it matter?

pbmax 2013-09-25, 13:02

You don't have to wait for the sake of the plants, unless you intend to add some lawn-mowers to the tank, in which case your plants should be well-established before adding them. Wink

The worst problem you can run into with a planted tank is algae really, and fish don't care much about that.

cichlid-gal 2013-10-10, 10:26

Update 10/9/13.

Added some seiryu stones also.
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Tank substrate added...I used Eco-complete.
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Plants are in...I was able to find some plants on my list but a lot of the plants are not on my list. Some of them came from other tanks that I have so I'm not sure if they will transplant ok. I expect to see some losses in this setup but its a learning experience so I'm ok with that (I think). Finding the "easy" plants seem to be harder than finding the "medium to high need" plants. Maybe that's a selling point for stores. I have an orchid and a mini peace lily that I plan to add to the wood piece sticking out of the tank (so those plants will be air and water). I need to get some type of moss to cover the roots of the orchid and work on the positioning of the peace lily so the roots get in the water but dont' obscure other stuff in the tank.

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Into the tank shot
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cichlid-gal 2013-10-10, 10:32

Plants that I added

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Plant key
1. Ceratopteris thalictroides (water sprite)
2. Crinum natans
3. Ludwigia palustris (Ludwigia narrow leaf)
4. Hemianthus callitrichoides (Baby tears)
5. Cryptocoryne wendtii (red)
6. cryptocoryne wendtii (green)
7. Hydrocotyle verticillata (pennywort)
8. Ludwigia repens (red ludwigia)
9. Cabomba carolina (green cabomba)
10. Aponogeton ulvaceu

If some of these grow they will outgrow the tank but they will help keep it full until I find the plants I'm looking for. I had the Cyptocorynes in another tank...they were in pots so I'm not sure if they will make the move without melting or not. Figured I'd try.

And a sneak peak of my future inhabitants...they are waiting for me to finish setting up this tank and holding in a 20G right now. And again, these fish are new to me also and their preferred water parameters are different from mine but I'm going to give it a try. If they don't do well, I'll try to rehome them with someone that has better water parameters for them.

Long-finned German Blue Rams
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pbmax 2013-10-10, 11:18

Looks fantastic! Spot On

It's definitely a great start; you've put some real planning into it for sure. I like the numbered plant guide. Smile

I hope they all thrive for you.

Lamental Jester 2013-10-10, 13:00

Looks great Donna! Welcome to the wonderful (and sometimes frustrating) world of plant keeping! Can't wait to see how it looks after everything fills out Spot On

cichlid-gal 2013-10-10, 14:30

Thanks pbmax and Lamental. Cycled media was put into the 2217 so I'll check parameters later today and see if we are good to go.

I did my first fertilizer dosing today. Going to try once a week dosing and see how that goes. Will be adding the fish later today.

I have the lights on a timer...4 hours on then off for 2 1/2 hours then on for 5 hours. Does that sound good or like too much light?

pbmax 2013-10-10, 14:32

9 hours is good starting point. I've run as few as 8 hours, but I'm at 10h on most of my tanks.

cichlid-gal 2013-10-10, 14:34

pbmax wrote:9 hours is good starting point. I've run as few as 8 hours, but I'm at 10h on most of my tanks.

BallardFishGuy 2013-10-10, 15:02

All my tanks turn on around 9:00am and turn off at 10:30pm... Doin fine! :-)

fishNAbowl 2013-10-10, 15:26

That's gonna look really good once the plants fill out Very Happy

dwarfpike 2013-10-10, 15:45

33 longs are a great tank. I rather have them than a 55 gallon myself.

I like the planting, not too many species ... I agree it should like great when filled in.

cichlid-gal 2013-10-20, 09:17

Update 10/19/13

Tank has picked up another plant, one in each corner (I'm not sure what this plant is...I bought it from Aquarium Co-op...it was huge...I have separated it to smaller sections...a lily like plant growing from rooted stem sections? Can someone id this for me? If its green tiger lotus lily I want to prune it to keep it smaller)

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Other plants seem to be doing well. The baby tears have melted to some degree but some have also shown some growth

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The other plants are looking good and showing some new "little" sprouts...hoping that's a good sign

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LuminousAphid 2013-10-20, 11:50

If I remember right, it's called Nymphoides taiwan.... it's close to the "Banana Plant," which if I also remember right, is Nymphoides aquatica. I always remember it as the "Banana plant without bananas"

Looks really good, I like the rock in there. Is it Seiryu stone or something similar?

fishNAbowl 2013-10-20, 12:34

I just gave 3-4 of those plants to dwarfpike.

cichlid-gal, I totally dig how you got those rocks set up. Think I am going to shop around for some & see how they look in my tank...

dwarfpike 2013-10-20, 15:02

So that's what they are? Interesting. The female still won't let me fully plant them yet. Silly females.

Anthraxx 2013-10-20, 20:10

@ fishnabowl: pretty darn sure those are the seiruyu (sry maybe mispelt) stones that cory currently carries at aquarium co-op. i ended up buying a big one myself, really love the look of them. its a bit pricey as its shipped from asia but imo its well worth it. much more character to the rocks then lace or holey rock (at least imo)

BillHN 2013-10-20, 20:37

I love this tank.

cichlid-gal 2013-10-20, 21:00

LuminousAphid wrote:If I remember right, it's called Nymphoides taiwan.... it's close to the "Banana Plant," which if I also remember right, is Nymphoides aquatica. I always remember it as the "Banana plant without bananas"

Looks really good, I like the rock in there. Is it Seiryu stone or something similar?

Luminous...thank you so much...now I can read about them and see how to care for them. And yes...that is Seiryu stone.

fishNAbowl wrote:I just gave 3-4 of those plants to dwarfpike.

cichlid-gal, I totally dig how you got those rocks set up. Think I am going to shop around for some & see how they look in my tank...

FishNabowl...Thanks for the complements!!!!

BillHN wrote:I love this tank.

Thanks BillHN!!!

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