Looking for a good algae ID site
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JimA
DMD123
Betty
7 posters
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Looking for a good algae ID site
I'm trying to identify what I think is a type of algae that I'm having a problem with. I've seen lots of sites with the same dozen or so of the common types of algae, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive.
I know it's not (or at least I don't think it is):
Blue-green
Brown
Brush
Film
Fuzz
Green water
Hair
Staghorn
Spot
Thread
Red
Anyone know of a good site?
I know it's not (or at least I don't think it is):
Blue-green
Brown
Brush
Film
Fuzz
Green water
Hair
Staghorn
Spot
Thread
Red
Anyone know of a good site?
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
I was thinking some of the planted sites....
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DMD123- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2010-06-11
Age : 55
Location : Tacoma, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Betty wrote:I'm trying to identify what I think is a type of algae that I'm having a problem with. I've seen lots of sites with the same dozen or so of the common types of algae, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive.
I know it's not (or at least I don't think it is):
Blue-green
Brown
Brush
Film
Fuzz
Green water
Hair
Staghorn
Spot
Thread
Red
Anyone know of a good site?
If it's not any of those, whats left?
JimA- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-04-28
Age : 61
Location : Bellingham
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Yeah DMD, I checked a few of the planted tank sites and couldn't find what I have. Thanks for looking.
This stuff I have gets on the rocks and sand. At first I thought it was cyanobacteria or blue-green algae, but it doesn't fit the description of being slimy and easy to remove. It's a nice shade of green and coats the sand bed and it's impossible to remove. It forms a green crust on the top layer of sand. Any attempt to stir the sand causes it to break up into clumps because this "algae" is holding the grains together.
So far I have tried removing and replacing all of the sand, scrubbed and bleached the rocks, filter and tank. The only thing I haven't cleaned are the fish.
I change at least 50% of the water each week. There is good circulation and filtration. It's gone from being in one tank to three tanks now, all in the same room with a large south facing window. Lighting on each tank is different. All are lightly stocked. These tanks have been setup for as long as 6 years in the same location without this problem until two or three months ago. I'd like to know what it is, what caused it and how to get rid of it!!
That's what I'd like to know.If it's not any of those, whats left?
This stuff I have gets on the rocks and sand. At first I thought it was cyanobacteria or blue-green algae, but it doesn't fit the description of being slimy and easy to remove. It's a nice shade of green and coats the sand bed and it's impossible to remove. It forms a green crust on the top layer of sand. Any attempt to stir the sand causes it to break up into clumps because this "algae" is holding the grains together.
So far I have tried removing and replacing all of the sand, scrubbed and bleached the rocks, filter and tank. The only thing I haven't cleaned are the fish.
I change at least 50% of the water each week. There is good circulation and filtration. It's gone from being in one tank to three tanks now, all in the same room with a large south facing window. Lighting on each tank is different. All are lightly stocked. These tanks have been setup for as long as 6 years in the same location without this problem until two or three months ago. I'd like to know what it is, what caused it and how to get rid of it!!
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
well halfway thru ur post i figured it out.. but if i continue reading thats when my theory gets derailed. id say diatom algae is your most likely culprit but it should have shown up long ago. have you recently added any new sand? or changed to a silica sand?
Anthraxx- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-04-24
Location : Tacoma
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hey Betty,
Have you been here to look for your alga? [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
Have you been here to look for your alga? [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
fishloverRon- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-03-23
Age : 77
Location : Federal Way
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Anthraxx, no the sand wasn't new when the problem started. I ended up tossing it because I couldn't get the green growth off of it, so there is new sand in that tank now. I really can't think of anything at all that changed.
Ron, I did see that site. It's a good one with the pictures included. Unfortunately, none of those look like what I have.
I tried taking pictures, but haven't been able to get a good one yet and in one of the tanks that it's recently shown up in, the sand is black and it's hard to tell other than the way it clumps the sand together. I'll keep trying.
Thanks for your help.
Ron, I did see that site. It's a good one with the pictures included. Unfortunately, none of those look like what I have.
I tried taking pictures, but haven't been able to get a good one yet and in one of the tanks that it's recently shown up in, the sand is black and it's hard to tell other than the way it clumps the sand together. I'll keep trying.
Thanks for your help.
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
if you cant figure out what it is and u dont like it clearly id just start really digging into that tank when doing water changes. in really nasty tanks ive just stuck my hands in there and just toss everything around then once it settles a bit i just suck it all up. just my two cents here. also flourish excel seems to be a good way to get rid of unwanted algae. try dbl dosing the tank and see if it helps at all..
Anthraxx- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-04-24
Location : Tacoma
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] this is site i used to figure out my general algae and then eradicate it =-)
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Anthraxx, I might give the excel a try. I stir this sand around frequently and the fish keep it plowed up as well.
I have some pictures, just in case anyone has successfully dealt with this before.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
I have some pictures, just in case anyone has successfully dealt with this before.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Betty,
It looks like cyanobacteria or Blue-Green algae (BGA) to me; does it have a strong, musty, obnoxious aroma? BGA can be caused by low nitrate levels, inadequate circulation, decaying food, excessive light, or a combination of the above. BGA is not a 'true' plant type algae but a algae/bacteria combination. Suggested treatments include multi-day 'blackouts', antibiotics, and hydrogen peroxide.
I wrote an article in the GSAS Newsletter, Northwest Aquaria Vol. 32 No. 2 - Oct 2009 (page 6) explaining how to eradicate BGA. I have had marginal success with antibiotics possibly because there are some antibiotic resistant strains of BGA showing up in aquariums. Treatment with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) have proven more successful when I have an outbreak. Whichever method is utilized to kill the BGA remember you are only dealing with the symptom; you still need to determine the cause and correct it or it will return.
It is possible to eradicate BGA and keep it from coming back.
It looks like cyanobacteria or Blue-Green algae (BGA) to me; does it have a strong, musty, obnoxious aroma? BGA can be caused by low nitrate levels, inadequate circulation, decaying food, excessive light, or a combination of the above. BGA is not a 'true' plant type algae but a algae/bacteria combination. Suggested treatments include multi-day 'blackouts', antibiotics, and hydrogen peroxide.
I wrote an article in the GSAS Newsletter, Northwest Aquaria Vol. 32 No. 2 - Oct 2009 (page 6) explaining how to eradicate BGA. I have had marginal success with antibiotics possibly because there are some antibiotic resistant strains of BGA showing up in aquariums. Treatment with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) have proven more successful when I have an outbreak. Whichever method is utilized to kill the BGA remember you are only dealing with the symptom; you still need to determine the cause and correct it or it will return.
It is possible to eradicate BGA and keep it from coming back.
Seattle_Aquarist- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-01-27
Location : Renton, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Roy,
I had thought that this might be blue-green algae when I first noticed it, but reading the descriptions online, it didn't fit. The main one being that bga is slimy and comes off in sheets. This stuff in my tank forms a solid crust and breaks off in chunks, clinging to the sand. It only forms on the sand and rocks. I have to scrub the rocks to get it off. It doesn't come off of the sand.
The odor isn't what I would call musty, but it's definitely stinky. I have a Penguin 150 running on it and do close to a 50% water change on it weekly. There are only two adult shellies and one juvenile bristlenose as occupants.
I'll look up your article and maybe give the treatment a try. Even if it isn't bga, it probably wouldn't hurt to see if it will get rid of this.
Thank you.
I had thought that this might be blue-green algae when I first noticed it, but reading the descriptions online, it didn't fit. The main one being that bga is slimy and comes off in sheets. This stuff in my tank forms a solid crust and breaks off in chunks, clinging to the sand. It only forms on the sand and rocks. I have to scrub the rocks to get it off. It doesn't come off of the sand.
The odor isn't what I would call musty, but it's definitely stinky. I have a Penguin 150 running on it and do close to a 50% water change on it weekly. There are only two adult shellies and one juvenile bristlenose as occupants.
I'll look up your article and maybe give the treatment a try. Even if it isn't bga, it probably wouldn't hurt to see if it will get rid of this.
Thank you.
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Betty,
It definitely sounds (and smells) like BGA. My wife does not appreciate the aroma. I have not had success combating it with water changes, and have yet to find a biological (algae eater or snail) that will go after it. After I kill it with H2O2 my Corys do seem to enjoy eating it!
If you need additional help you can PM me or send me an e-mail.. BTW, I believe I got that Philippine species crypt from you? I am growing it emersed but it hasn't bloomed yet so no ID.
-Roy
It definitely sounds (and smells) like BGA. My wife does not appreciate the aroma. I have not had success combating it with water changes, and have yet to find a biological (algae eater or snail) that will go after it. After I kill it with H2O2 my Corys do seem to enjoy eating it!
If you need additional help you can PM me or send me an e-mail.. BTW, I believe I got that Philippine species crypt from you? I am growing it emersed but it hasn't bloomed yet so no ID.
-Roy
Seattle_Aquarist- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-01-27
Location : Renton, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
I wish, but no, it was a different Betty -- I can't even keep plastic plants alive!! I keep trying with the live plants, but blue-green algae seems to be my most successful "plant".Seattle_Aquarist wrote:... BTW, I believe I got that Philippine species crypt from you? ...
I read the article and will give your method a try. I like it better than some of the other treatments I've seen. I just need to find Potassium Nitrate. Is that something that I could find in the plant section of the lfs?
Again, thanks for your help.
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Betty,
You can use Seachem Nitrogen if you like; since I didn't see any plants in your tank I would only dose 1/4 the dose recommended on the bottle.
The only LFS that I am aware of that stocks Potassium Nitrate is A Place for Pets in Burien.
Quick question, what size tank was that, what wattage is the fixture, how long is the photoperiod?
Glad to help!
-Roy
You can use Seachem Nitrogen if you like; since I didn't see any plants in your tank I would only dose 1/4 the dose recommended on the bottle.
The only LFS that I am aware of that stocks Potassium Nitrate is A Place for Pets in Burien.
Quick question, what size tank was that, what wattage is the fixture, how long is the photoperiod?
Glad to help!
-Roy
Seattle_Aquarist- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-01-27
Location : Renton, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
This tank in the picture is a 10 gallon. It's been up and running with those same two fish for 5 or 6 years. The fixture is a Marineland LED, not sure of the wattage, but it's low. I keep it on about 12 hours.
I also had this same thing going on in a 20 gallon nearby. That one has a Coralife T5 -- I think it's 28 watts, on for 12 hours as well. After a good scrubbing and change of sand, it hasn't come back in that tank -- yet.
I also had this same thing going on in a 20 gallon nearby. That one has a Coralife T5 -- I think it's 28 watts, on for 12 hours as well. After a good scrubbing and change of sand, it hasn't come back in that tank -- yet.
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Betty,
Cyanobacteria thrive in low oxygen environments, where there decaying stuff and is plenty of light. You may not want to know this but waste treatment plants have problems with Cyanobacteria.
The trick to the H2O2 treatment is to do it when the lights have been on at least an hour our so, that way the BGA is a maximum photosynthesis. I typically turn off my filters about 10 minutes prior to dosing so there is no movement in the water and the H2O2 stays in contact with the BGA for as long as possible. You'll know if you are getting results, 10 minutes or less after application the BGA will be bubbling like heck!
Cyanobacteria thrive in low oxygen environments, where there decaying stuff and is plenty of light. You may not want to know this but waste treatment plants have problems with Cyanobacteria.
The trick to the H2O2 treatment is to do it when the lights have been on at least an hour our so, that way the BGA is a maximum photosynthesis. I typically turn off my filters about 10 minutes prior to dosing so there is no movement in the water and the H2O2 stays in contact with the BGA for as long as possible. You'll know if you are getting results, 10 minutes or less after application the BGA will be bubbling like heck!
Seattle_Aquarist- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-01-27
Location : Renton, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Yuck, I feel like I should be wearing gloves in this tank.
I'll pick up some H2O2 and give this a try and will let you know how it goes.
One question for you -- do you know if it's transferable from one tank to another through common equipment like vacuum hoses or on your hands if you go from one tank to the next without washing?
I'll pick up some H2O2 and give this a try and will let you know how it goes.
One question for you -- do you know if it's transferable from one tank to another through common equipment like vacuum hoses or on your hands if you go from one tank to the next without washing?
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
Hi Betty,
I believe that most algae types exist in my tanks all of the time. It's only when the conditions are right does the algae start to 'take off' and become a problem. Since cyanobacteria are a bacteria/algae; I would assume that it can be spread on nets, hoses, or anything else I move from tank to tank.
-Roy
I believe that most algae types exist in my tanks all of the time. It's only when the conditions are right does the algae start to 'take off' and become a problem. Since cyanobacteria are a bacteria/algae; I would assume that it can be spread on nets, hoses, or anything else I move from tank to tank.
-Roy
Seattle_Aquarist- Lifetime Member
- Join date : 2011-01-27
Location : Renton, WA
Re: Looking for a good algae ID site
An update:
I went with the hydrogen peroxide treatment last week.
This is what the left side of the tank looked like right before the peroxide.
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Here it is 4 hours later.
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And 4 hours after that.
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One of the two brevis that inhabit this tank.
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The peroxide seemed to do the trick to kill the stuff on the sand where I was able to apply it directly with a syringe. It didn't do much to what was growing on the rocks and I didn't want to dose too much without knowing how that would affect my fish. So I will remove the rocks and clean those up, then return them to the tank. The problem now is that even though it appears to be dead and isn't spreading, I still can't get it off of the sand. I'll have to scrape off the top layer of sand again and hopefully, this time it won't grow back! I'm thinking about adding an airstone or lowering the water level to try to create more current in the tank. I don't know what caused this problem because I don't overfeed and I do weekly large water changes, so I don't really know what to do to correct whatever caused this.
Thanks to Roy for all of his help with this. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
I went with the hydrogen peroxide treatment last week.
This is what the left side of the tank looked like right before the peroxide.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Here it is 4 hours later.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
And 4 hours after that.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
One of the two brevis that inhabit this tank.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
The peroxide seemed to do the trick to kill the stuff on the sand where I was able to apply it directly with a syringe. It didn't do much to what was growing on the rocks and I didn't want to dose too much without knowing how that would affect my fish. So I will remove the rocks and clean those up, then return them to the tank. The problem now is that even though it appears to be dead and isn't spreading, I still can't get it off of the sand. I'll have to scrape off the top layer of sand again and hopefully, this time it won't grow back! I'm thinking about adding an airstone or lowering the water level to try to create more current in the tank. I don't know what caused this problem because I don't overfeed and I do weekly large water changes, so I don't really know what to do to correct whatever caused this.
Thanks to Roy for all of his help with this. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Betty- Contributing Member
- Join date : 2010-07-05
Age : 64
Location : McKenna
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