What are our general guidlines between HIGH TECH/LOW TECH planted setups?

Im confused. I am reading threads stating they are setting up "LOW TECH" tanks. Then go on stating they are using Amazonia Substrate, or some other specialized planted substrate, then they go on with everything else we all "HIGH TECH" tank people use (ferts, ect.) minus maybe CO2 and the amount of light used....

To me a "low tech tank" is; Normal rock or glass substrate (artificially colored or natural pea pebbles) and an old T8 bulb. Once you move into specialized substrates and or lighting, and any kind of artificial fertilization I feEl you have moved into "high tech".

Thoughts?

Hi fishNAbowl,

Typically I draw the line with CO2. If yes (even DIY), then 'High Tech'. If no, then 'Low Tech'. Soils and substrates, whether ADA soils (which are basically a baked mineralized soil with nutrients) or mineralized organic potting mix don't really make a tank 'High Tech'. I have seem the results of individuals trying to run high output lights (which we associate with 'High Tech') and unless the tank has CO2 the results are typically disappointing. A lot of folks add ferts to their 'Low Tech' tanks to improve their plants but it doesn't necessarily make the tank 'High Tech'.

Very good point Roy, I am on board with this point of view!


Anyone else?

I've always associated it with CO2 and higher lighting, more than ferts and substrate myself.

I always associated it with more devices like, sophisticated artificial lights and injected co2.  I don't think that quality of plant growth should be inferred based on the preferred setup though, which I feel a lot of hobbyist assume.

I tend to draw the line at CO2 as well... though I wouldn't call a CO2 tank with no lights, heating, special substrate or fancy filtering a "high tech" tank. I like to think of high tech <-> low tech as a continuum, and rather than asking "is this tank high/low tech?" I prefer to ask "how high/low tech is this tank?"

I figure a tank with at least three "high tech" features earns the label from me. For example, CO2 + (T5HO or LED lights) + fertilized substrate = high tech. Remove one of those three things and you have medium tech, low high tech... or wannabe tech. I call my tanks with LEDs and lots of fish poop "lazy bum tech"

I agree with what MRTom said about what is considered low/med/high tech.

Just one more step before my planted tank becomes high tech!

Curse you co2 systems and their pricey-ness!

I've checked many different routes and I don't like DIY (yeast+sugar), not too fond of the paintball cartridge project either, and doing it the right way costs too much. Blech :\

Hi PokeSephiroth,

Just keep an eye on Craigslist; I picked up my first tank (20# aluminum) and regulator for $60; it took a few months. I added a good needle valve for about $55 and I was done. I don't use solenoids or bubble counters (they both eventually fail). I typically run 2 tanks or more off of one tank by adding a manifold and additional needle valve.

Seattle_Aquarist wrote:Hi PokeSephiroth,

Just keep an eye on Craigslist; I picked up my first tank (20# aluminum) and regulator for $60; it took a few months.  I added a good needle valve for about $55 and I was done.  I don't use solenoids or bubble counters (they both eventually fail).  I typically run 2 tanks or more off of one tank by adding a manifold and additional needle valve.

Roy,
Then do you run the CO2 24/7? Maybe just have it running low?

Is DIY co2 systems low tech? My tanks are dirted/flourite gravel, t5 10,000k- 8hrs aday, some ferts (in other 3 planted, not the dirted tank), and DIY co2 system. Med tech?

Nvm re read Roy's 1st post. Yay. Im hi tech. Lol.

fishNAbowl wrote:Roy,
Then do you run the CO2 24/7? Maybe just have it running low?

Hi fishNAbowl,

That's right I run my CO2 24/7; I use a drop checker with 4.0 dKH indicator solution and target 30 ppm CO2.  When I first joined GSAS in March '08 there was a speaker from Texas named Luis Navarro that did a talk on aquascaping.  He discussed how to aquascape a 'Green Tank' for low maintenance and  'high tech' systems.  When discussing 'high tech' systems he mentioned the high failure rate of solenoids.  As for bubble counters my observations of complaints on the planted aquarium forums raised concerns.  I use good needle valves that once set don't 'wander' in their output so once I set them for 30 ppm they stay there.

Actually rather than use BPS I am going to change how I measure my CO2 injection to measuring milliliters over a period of time using an inverted beaker with ml gradients and seeing how long it takes to inject a certain amount of CO2 into it.  It was a suggestion discussed on the Barr Report and it made sense.

I am interested in leaning more about this type of measurement Roy. I use checkers to but only for a quick visual guide to kind of make sure nothing has kind of gone out of whack.

The reason I asked is because my 1st CO2 system was DYI. There was no way to shut it down at night. I ran it for a few months before acquiring a pressurized system.

i am aware about solenoids. I've worked for a gas company for over a decade now. I've seen them wear out and like the idea of doing away with a solenoid if possible. If removed it would be just one less thing to fail.

Hi fishNAbowl,

When I started out with CO2 I tried to learn as much as I could about the subject.  What I remember reading (and from my personal experience) most fish species (including fry) can tolerate 30 ppm CO2 with no apparent problems or signs of distress.    Some species can tolerate higher ppm's but I did not want to take a chance.  I agree that drop checkers provide a good visual check of our CO2 levels although they are only 'marginally accurate'.  I say 'marginally accurate' since they require the use of 4.0 dKH water mixed with the indicator solution (Bromothymol blue) to provide accurate colors and several hours to reach equilibrium after being placed in my tank.  I also look at my fish, if they seem to be 'breathing heavily' I double check my drop checker and maybe do a quick PH/dKH/PPM verification to make sure I am not over 30 ppm.

I too started with DIY when I first got into planted tanks.  Once I verified the improved results I quickly tired of mixing the yeast and sugar solution and started scouring the Craigslist ads for CO2 cylinders and regulators.

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Thank you for posting this graph. Testing the KH I found I am right on the boarder of going to the red on a couple of my tanks according to the graph.

Hi fishNAbowl,

I find that although the graph may be fairly accurate my tests kits are not so I don't freak if I am borderline. My API KH Test Kit is OK but not necessarily lab grade so the readings I get are subject to error. I have not gone to the trouble to calibrate my test kits nor do I plan to in the near future.