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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-07, 13:29

Well, not quite sure if this steps on Poke's review  if so I dont mean to step on toes. This thread is about Finnex FugeRay Planted Plus only.
Mods; if you think this thread resembles Poke's thread about mixing fixtures please delete I do not mind continuing on with his thread about mixing. With that said;
_______________________________________

FINNEX FUGERAY PLANTED +


So far so good. Installed about a week ago on a tank that was plagued with out of control algaes & bacteria's. The light I removed was the Finnex Ray2, before that was a duel T5HO. This tank has been a thorn in my side for months. I installed the Finnex FRP+,  cleaned the crap out of this tank (again) ,moved the plants around & put in some rocks. I know it's been a week, but if you know this tank it would have already been a disaster when I was using the other 2 lighting fixtures.

I am not saying this fixture "saved" my tank, I am saying there is something different. The light a bit more warm, my plants look vibrant and healthy, & new growth showing, fish colors pop a little bit, and yet, after a week of 13 hr per day- no algae present!

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12/5/13
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I will update on growth as time passes. If anyone else has experience, or pictures to share using this light please share.


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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-07, 15:01

Note: the comment about having a RAY2 on the tank is in no way a negative review on the RAY2. I had a 3' fixture on this 30 gallon tank. I think that fixture was way too bright contributing to my algae issues. That fixture is now making plants pearl in a much larger tank.
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Post  Seattle_Aquarist 2013-12-07, 16:47

Hi fishNAbowl,

The Finnex Ray2 has more output than the Finnex Planted+. Comparing the two 24" fixtures the Ray2 has PAR=74 @12" and the Planted+ has PAR=61 @12" (about 20% less). The reduction in light intensity by 20% probably contributed to helping resolve the algae issue.
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-07, 18:37

Seattle_Aquarist wrote:
The Finnex Ray2 has more output than the Finnex Planted+.  Comparing the two 24" fixtures the Ray2 has PAR=74 @12" and the Planted+ has PAR=61 @12" (about 20% less). The reduction in light intensity by 20% probably contributed to helping resolve the algae issue.
Makes since Roy, thanks for jumping in. I also have a 9.5 gallon long with the same algae issue using a 2' Finnex Ray2. Thinking about picking up another FRP+. The Ray2 works awesome but makes for twice the maintenance (algae) in that small tank.
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Post  WhosUrDadi 2013-12-07, 18:42

if the ray2 is creating a lot of algae, according in my research (planning already for a planted tank), that means you need to add more plants so the plants will out compete the algae. =)
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-07, 18:55

WhosUrDadi wrote:if the ray2 is creating a lot of algae, according in my research (planning already for a planted tank), that means you need to add more plants so the plants will out compete the algae. =)
I agree in most circumstances. However in this 9.5 gallon I have it is a LONG tank -2 feet long, 6 inches from front to back. This fixture was probably built for a 20 gallon tank.  I had this tank stuffed with plants, with floaters, small lilly type plants to nearly block all the light from entering water. Then and only then did I not have an algae issue. But this isn't how I want this tank. So, a light with less output is what I am needing to reach the goal intended.

Here is a picture .
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Notice, complete surface coverage. Completely full of plants. I had to remove many due to excessive growth and over crowding. This is okay, it looks neat but I wish to open the surface water up so everything isn't shaded & use different plants.

In my 29 gallon the Ray2 was a 3 foot fixture. I placed in there temporally until I could pick up a four foot fixture and use both on my 7' tank. For one, a 3 foot fixture was too big. 29 gallon tanks fit 30" fixtures. I think in the 29 gallon there was other stuff gong on as well. So far my clean out has worked keeping Cyanobacteria at bay too which was another issue I was contending with in the 29 gallon.
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Post  pbmax 2013-12-07, 20:11

Finnex doesn't seem to be terribly consistent with their light sizing between product lines.  The planted+ 30" fixture has slightly more power output than the ray2 30" fixture (20.8w vs 20w), but the 24" planted+ has less power output than the 24" ray2 (17.8w vs 20w).  Given Roy's info on PAR between the two 24" fixtures (ray2 24" having about 20% more PAR but only 11% more power output) it seems that the planted plus actually produces less PAR per watt than the ray2 does.  This would cause one to wonder what the whole point of the "planted+" product line is. Shocked 

I have a 30" (same as 24") finnex ray2 over a 20L.  It replaced a dual 30" 6700K T5HO (62W) fixture.  I put the ray2 over a 29g and found it didn't put out as much light (to my eyes) as the 62W T5HO did, so swapped the fixtures and that seems to be a better fit.  The LED light seemed initially brighter, but didn't penetrate as far into the water, at least to my eyes.

So far the 20L is doing okay - no new algae.  I'm in the midst of a second round of mass die-out of my hellanthium tenellum in that tank for whatever reason, but it's one of my least problematic tanks algae-wise and that hasn't changed since I put the LED fixture on it.

Thanks to Roy's PAR info, I may have to adjust my Amazon wishlist as far as the planted+ goes.  Further number crunching is warranted! Cool


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Post  WhosUrDadi 2013-12-07, 21:46

fishNAbowl wrote:
WhosUrDadi wrote:if the ray2 is creating a lot of algae, according in my research (planning already for a planted tank), that means you need to add more plants so the plants will out compete the algae. =)
I agree in most circumstances. However in this 9.5 gallon I have it is a LONG tank -2 feet long, 6 inches from front to back. This fixture was probably built for a 20 gallon tank.  I had this tank stuffed with plants, with floaters, small lilly type plants to nearly block all the light from entering water. Then and only then did I not have an algae issue. But this isn't how I want this tank. So, a light with less output is what I am needing to reach the goal intended.

Here is a picture .
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Notice, complete surface coverage. Completely full of plants. I had to remove many due to excessive growth and over crowding. This is okay, it looks neat but I wish to open the surface water up so everything isn't shaded & use different plants.

In my 29 gallon the Ray2 was a 3 foot fixture. I placed in there temporally until I could pick up a four foot fixture and use both on my 7' tank. For one, a 3 foot fixture was too big. 29 gallon tanks fit 30" fixtures. I think in the 29 gallon there was other stuff gong on as well. So far my clean out has worked keeping Cyanobacteria at bay too which was another issue I was contending with in the 29 gallon.


According from Corey, you shouldn't use the ray 2 for shallow tanks, which maybe I think for do not use it with lower than 18" in height..
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-07, 23:39

WhosUrDadi wrote:
According from Corey, you shouldn't use the ray 2 for shallow tanks, which maybe I think for do not use it with lower than 18" in height..
I totally get that now. All my RAY2 fixtures are now on my big tank. It is 2 feet deep. I just installed the FRP+ on the tank above tonight.
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Post  Anthony J. 2013-12-08, 01:22

So, since my only experience is a week and a half now with a 12" fugeray over my 7 gallon aquatop, I feel like a regular fugeray will not be quite enough for my 40B, but that both the planted + and ray2 would be over kill. In your opinions, 2 fugerays? For best coverage and ability to grow just about anything I want? I was going to start with a single fugeray, until I get a Co2 system, and then add a second. Opions? Sorry, not trying to thread jack, but this review seems to be right on par with what I was wondering. .. no pun intended Smile
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 02:16

Anthony J. wrote:So, since my only experience is a week and a half now with a 12" fugeray over my 7 gallon aquatop, I feel like a regular fugeray will not be quite enough for my 40B, but that both the planted + and ray2 would be over kill. In your opinions, 2 fugerays? For best coverage and ability to grow just about anything I want? I was going to start with a single fugeray, until I get a Co2 system, and then add a second. Opions? Sorry, not trying to thread jack, but this review seems to be right on par with what I was wondering. .. no pun intended Smile


I definitely would use 2 LED strips for coverage. At Aquarium CoOp there is a couple 40 gallons with plants in them. They use 2 Finnex LED fixtures on them. I am not 100% sure exactly if they are the FugeRay or Ray2. I believe they are FugeRay. All I can say is that I seen 1st hand tonight the plants pearling in each of those tanks- CO2 injected & non-CO2 injected. Perhaps Cory will chime in. If not I would totally give him a call and ask!


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Post  Aquarium Co-Op 2013-12-08, 02:20

I use two Finnex Ray 2s on the 40g breeders. I'll grab some pics tomorrow. But I can keep Red plants red, dwarf baby tears growing. Plants pearling... even without co2 in some of the tanks.
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 02:36

pbmax wrote:Finnex doesn't seem to be terribly consistent with their light sizing between product lines.  The planted+ 30" fixture has slightly more power output than the ray2 30" fixture (20.8w vs 20w), but the 24" planted+ has less power output than the 24" ray2 (17.8w vs 20w).  Given Roy's info on PAR between the two 24" fixtures (ray2 24" having about 20% more PAR but only 11% more power output) it seems that the planted plus actually produces less PAR per watt than the ray2 does.  This would cause one to wonder what the whole point of the "planted+" product line is.
What is PAR really? The measurement of how much white light energy hits the bottom of the tank (or wherever the meter is located)? I barely understand the scientific measurements so please excuse me if I am totally off.  So, the Ray2 has a few more 7,000K LED's than the FRP+. Finnex swapped out a few 7,000K LED'S & replaced them with REDS & BLUES. This in itself would lower PAR readings if the PAR meter is measurement of light because the reds and blues are not as "bright". However, this swap out enhances the RED spectrum. Which is said to enhance plant growth. Now, seeing that both LED fixtures are physically the same size finnex couldn't stuff enough LED's into the unit to maintain the same PAR readings as the Ray2 nor were they probably even trying.
I have not used the FRP+ long enough to review plant growth in either my 29 g or 9.5g.

On the flip side, I am using the Ray2 on a tank that's 2 feet deep. The plants on the substrate are growing.... Slower, but fine.... Plants middle are rocking! Plants near in the 1st 1/4 of the tanks surface are pearling.
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Post  PokeSephiroth 2013-12-08, 03:12

It was a pleasure seeing you at the store today! Smile I'm glad you got a chance to try out the Fuge Ray Planted + !

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Post  pbmax 2013-12-08, 03:49

fishNAbowl wrote:What is PAR really? The measurement of how much white light energy hits the bottom of the tank (or wherever the meter is located)? I barely understand the scientific measurements so please excuse me if I am totally off.  So, the Ray2 has a few more 7,000K LED's than the FRP+. Finnex swapped out a few 7,000K LED'S & replaced them with REDS & BLUES. This in itself would lower PAR readings if the PAR meter is measurement of light because the reds and blues are not as "bright". However, this swap out enhances the RED spectrum. Which is said to enhance plant growth. Now, seeing that both LED fixtures are physically the same size finnex couldn't stuff enough LED's into the unit to maintain the same PAR readings as the Ray2 nor were they probably even trying.
PAR is Photosynthetically Active Radiation - technically how much of the light is useable for photosynthesis (400nm - 700nm wavelength).  A higher PAR rating means more light energy is available for the plants to consume via photosynthesis.
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 12:27

pbmax wrote:
PAR is Photosynthetically Active Radiation - technically how much of the light is useable for photosynthesis (400nm - 700nm wavelength).  A higher PAR rating means more light energy is available for the plants to consume via photosynthesis.
Great pbmax, now if there was only a aquatic plant field guide that matches plant species with the proper PAR needed for optimal growth!
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Post  JimA 2013-12-08, 12:35

I asked the question in that other thread but it never got answered, suppose I could look it up but since you are here... What is the lumen output of each of these lights?

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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 12:49

JimA wrote:  I asked the question in that other thread but it never got answered,   suppose I could look it up but since you are here...    What is the lumen output of each of these lights?  
JimA,
Each fixture is going to have different lumens. I looked on the boxes of my LED fixtures & it doesn't say.

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Not finding it on the website either, perhaps you can find it?
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Post  pbmax 2013-12-08, 12:50

fishNAbowl wrote:
pbmax wrote:
PAR is Photosynthetically Active Radiation - technically how much of the light is useable for photosynthesis (400nm - 700nm wavelength).  A higher PAR rating means more light energy is available for the plants to consume via photosynthesis.
Great pbmax, now if there was only a aquatic plant field guide that matches plant species with the proper PAR needed for optimal growth!
Oh come on, "low", "medium", and "high" aren't accurate enough for you?? Wink
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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 14:05

pbmax wrote:
fishNAbowl wrote:
pbmax wrote:
PAR is Photosynthetically Active Radiation - technically how much of the light is useable for photosynthesis (400nm - 700nm wavelength).  A higher PAR rating means more light energy is available for the plants to consume via photosynthesis.
Great pbmax, now if there was only a aquatic plant field guide that matches plant species with the proper PAR needed for optimal growth!
Oh come on, "low", "medium", and "high" aren't accurate enough for you?? Wink
Yeah, that would even be okay! But for you technical scientific fellas I figured you would be working on something more accurate. What exactly would be considered LOW , MEDIUM, & HIGH when it comes to PAR readings?


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Post  PokeSephiroth 2013-12-08, 14:16

For people asking about PAR levels, I think I may have found some data online that might answer your questions. Or something.

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Post  Seattle_Aquarist 2013-12-08, 14:19

Hi fishNAbowl,

Approximately:
PAR <10 is probably too low for plants
PAR 10-35 - Low Light
PAR 35-70 - Medium Light
PAR >70 - High Light

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Post  fishNAbowl 2013-12-08, 14:31

PokeSephiroth wrote:
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Seattle_Aquarist wrote:
Approximately:
PAR <10 is probably too low for plants
PAR 10-35 - Low Light
PAR 35-70 - Medium Light
PAR >70 - High Light

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Very nice fellas, way to make it easily understandable!
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Post  PokeSephiroth 2013-12-08, 14:40

<--- Derp er derp, I am smrt! Very Happy~~~
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Post  Peylix 2014-02-04, 02:22

Just picked up a 48" fixture for my 55g today. Thanks to Cory at Aquarium Co op. I've had my eye on these since they announced them back in March last year. Followed several threads where Fin reps were talking about the development.

Then just so happens I saw Poke's review on youtube and fell in love.

Don't have many plants right now. Just a few Val's and a Sword at the moment. Was waiting to get this fixture before going nuts on plants.

Right out of the box I noticed the quality. The size.. (oh the size) so sleek and narrow. The light output itself is loads better than a standard t8. The coverage is also much better. Every square inch gets light in my tank now.

The color temp is perfect imo. Little on the warmer side but that can be fixed with DIY Blue LED strips or a Monster Ray (Aiming to get one in the future) I can't wait to get going on plants and finally finishing my 55g.

I'll post a video and some pictures later in the week once I get time. But first impressions as of right now are *jaw hitting floor*
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Post  zach_discus 2014-02-06, 14:58

I picked up a 36" Planted plus and a 36" Ray2 7k at the Liem's benifit day at Aquarium Co-Op. They are on a 90g Flat back Hex. The combo of the two is about perfect for a natural sunlight. The tank was just planted a few days befor the lights went on but the Rotila has grown over 8" in just over a week. My Red Lotus has also sent up to long runners. I am getting a little alge on the glass but not dosing right now and no plecos yet and I have been feeding very heavy due to the juvies in the tank.. Tanks has 5 juvi Discus, 4 Guianacaras, 9 HY511 Tetras, and a pr of Apisto Borelli. Plants are 6 kinds of crypts, 2 kinds of anubias, Red Rotilia, the red Tiger Lotus, and two unknowns. I have been very impressed with the Finnex LEDs. Heat is way down from the T5s I had on the tank.

The Planted + is not as bright as the Ray2, but the Red LEDs add to depth of color in the tank. I also leave the Blues of the Planted+ on, they make the blue high lights in the Discus and the Apistos sparkle. I don't get as much "shimmer" as I expected from the LEDs compared to the units I had over my Reef but still a very pleasing effect.

For me I would highly recomend the Planted + for a planted tank. Adding a Ray 2 does add alot of light but by its self, it tend to wash out the tnk a little two much. Running them together gives a great balance.

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Post  sea1 2014-02-08, 19:38

How much play is there in the legs/supports of the FugeRay Planted+? Will a 16" FugeRay Planted+ stretch far enough to mount on an 18" rimless tank?

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Post  pbmax 2014-02-08, 20:45

Is it really 18" across from outside glass to outside glass? If so, then yes, it will likely fit, but you may have the mounts extended so far they're not tight anymore.

I just measured one of my 20" fixtures and with the mounts fully extended it'll fit 22" outside-to-outside, but the screws will have be all the way out. It'll be flopsy, but it won't fall into the tank unless you bump it.

You could just let it set with mount screws on the rim - that would easily fit an inch extra on each side.
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Post  sea1 2014-02-08, 21:29

Thanks the reply. I just measured and it's actually 18 1/8" at the outside glass measurement. I guess I need to go take a look at a fixture in person to see what the mounts look like i.e. will the legs completely slip off the fixture if extended too far? I don't mind a floppy fit because the fixture won't be touched often ... I just don't want it to be unsafe.

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Post  pbmax 2014-02-08, 21:44

Here's a photo of the end of one of my 20" fixtures. You can rest it on screws if need be - that one will sit across 22" with both ends configured like that and resting on the screws. The screws are pretty tight and sturdy extended like they are in the photo. You could also reinforce the ends with some decent tape if you like to keep it from wobbling around. I wouldn't mind using it like that, personally.

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Post  sea1 2014-02-08, 21:56

Thanks for the picture. I think I'll bite the bullet and just go for it. If I need to, hopefully I can bend some metal rods to make extended supports (like the Marinland LEDS) in place of this plastic foot thing.

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Post  fishNAbowl 2014-02-08, 21:58

+ 1 pbmax, that's a cool idea. Seeing this post earlier I too extended the legs out of my Finnex. Seems I can get about 3/4" out before it gets weird, but like pbmax has indicated these screws are really stout. Sometimes I have issues just screwing them in or out. I would totally be comfortable resting these screws on a glass rim.
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Post  pbmax 2014-02-08, 22:00

I may do the same thing with a 10" fixture on a 12" tank just so I don't have so much light. Smile
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Post  Peylix 2014-03-12, 06:04

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Here is my 55g now with the planted+.
VERY happy with it. So much so that I picked up a fixture for my 30g yesterday. =D
Peylix
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Join date : 2014-01-17
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Post  fishNAbowl 2014-03-12, 09:35

Peylix wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Here is my 55g now with the planted+.
VERY happy with it. So much so that I picked up a fixture for my 30g yesterday. =D
 Spot On NICE!!
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Post  Livebearer 2014-03-15, 02:05

I know that this is about your light BUT If you don't mind me adding to your Algee frustration.
I have a Finnex ray that is a combo of cool white/420 atinic blue which I'm seeing is best suited for a Marine/coral tank enviroment.
I have tried it on 2 24" tanks (30Xhigh and a 15Long) for a total of 20 hours each with the result of a massive bloom of red fuzzy algee on the glass the sponge filter and anything else that is stationary. I would like to know what spectrums/combo's these light come in???
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Post  MRTom 2014-03-15, 12:50

LB, you can get the light options by going to the finnex site and clicking on lighting. They don't offer spectrum charts... but it should at least say what they make. On a 30gal/15gal, you are pretty much guaranteed algae with these things (and any other good light) if you leave them on 20 hours straight. Smile Is that what meant by 20 hours each?

Pb, if you haven't bought the lights yet, I might second the use of a 16" on the 18" rimless as I did that for a while... but after a while I got tired of the light not being supported enough, so I went ahead and bought a 20" instead (planted+ doesn't come in 18").
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