Anyone use crushed oyster shells to raise PH?

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 17:48

I was about to buy some CC from APFP, but stopped at midway instead.
The elder dude mentioned to use crushed oyster shells, either way would raise PH.
It's been day 4 now, using CC and Oyster shells, PH is still at 6 or below.

aaronfeeney 2010-11-12, 17:51

wow my CC keeps my tank Ph at a steady 8.2-8.0 starting with 6.5 tapwater

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 17:56

Should I visit APFP to get more CC?
CC, oyster shells, cuttle bone are all based on calcium blah, blah, blah right?

Sorry, did not remember the scientific term.

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-12, 18:31

We have a guy that comes into our local store and he uses oyster shells but doesn't crush them. He just uses them full and silicones them together to make hiding holes for the fish. He said they still release the pH he needs I guess. Just and idea. Smile

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 18:36

ShortyKiloGyrl wrote:We have a guy that comes into our local store and he uses oyster shells but doesn't crush them. He just uses them full and silicones them together to make hiding holes for the fish. He said they still release the pH he needs I guess. Just and idea.

Ok, sweet. Just needed some confidence it will work.
Thank you!

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-12, 18:50

I can't promise it'll work because it is just word of mouth. But we have ALOT of local oyster farms around here and he doesn't use coral I guess. Just the oyster shells.

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 18:59

Ok, if it does not work, i won't hunt you down. I promise.
LOL.

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-12, 19:33

lol Well that's good to know

hbluehunter 2010-11-12, 20:21

Just curious how much you added to your tank ?? I know I had to add 20-25 lbs to mine to hold it at 7.6 I think..

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 20:43

hbluehunter wrote:Just curious how much you added to your tank ?? I know I had to add 20-25 lbs to mine to hold it at 7.6 I think..

well...I remembered a pinch of CC would stabilize PH in a 10G at 7.
So, in the 180G, I added about 10 teaspoons of CC (before I ran out), 5 teaspoon of oyster shells.

Before this PH crash: I added about 5 teaspoons in my canister. PH stayed at 6.8/7.0 for about 3 months.

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-12, 21:15

Also, baking soda mixed well into water helps pH. My boyfriend uses that.

hbluehunter 2010-11-12, 21:39

I used to do the whole baking soda thing but it wasn't good for my fish to be on a ph rollercoaster.. That's why I did the crushed coral and now I haven't had to do anything with baking soda for a year now.

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 21:46

Yea, CC is the best.

Fern 2010-11-12, 22:07

Yes they will raise the PH, I use them whole in quite a few tanks, I love raw oysters and take the shells home for my fish tanks

**protocl** 2010-11-12, 22:32

Fern wrote:Yes they will raise the PH, I use them whole in quite a few tanks, I love raw oysters and take the shells home for my fish tanks

cool!, thank you fern.

Fern 2010-11-13, 23:23

If you want to use them whole as small caves that's a great use for them, just don't use them with clumsy scaleless fish in the tank as they can get sharp. I use them as smaller African cichlid hidey holes especially when theres a big size difference in the tank.

I'm 85% sure they raise the GH and that in turn raises the PH.
Any calcium based organic does the same job as coral. Limestone, bone, shell, coral.... they all achieve the same thing in a tank.

**protocl** 2010-11-14, 01:54

well...its the 4th day, today.
PH is still very low. based on the API test, its at pure yellow.

sandnuka 2010-11-14, 03:11

I would raise it up with some bakin soda.... then dump in a bunch of cichlid salt to raise KH, and GH, this will keep the PH maintained at watever you get it with the bakin soda. Smile

crushed coral/crushed shells wouldnt raise my 100gallon alone... but they helped keep it buffered at 8.0 once I got it there with API Ph increase/bakin soda. Smile

**protocl** 2010-11-14, 03:18

yea...ill get the cichlid salt and get some more CC.

Fern 2010-11-15, 12:35

You do want to raise it gradually or you could stress the fish.

**larry.beck** 2010-11-16, 00:40

I use buffer and salts in my rift lake tanks, and then have crushed coral in the bed of my larger tank (with white sand substrate) to help maintain the pH. I'm not sure that the coral is enough to *raise* the pH so much as to help maintain it. And as I recall, it'll only maintain it once is falls below 8.2.

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 00:56

Well...My 10G's PH is up at 7, but the 180G's PH is still low. Like, 6 or below.
I'll add more CC.

Bah.

Billiethekid 2010-11-16, 01:57

i know this against anything you should do but... i went to An Island around here and collected moon snail shells and then to local state park and collected oyster and clam shells... i soaked them in a Hot Salt and Vinegar Bath for 30 minutes then scrubbed them with a tooth brush to remove algae and sand.. i havent had an issue with them at all.. no parasites or wierd diseases... so ur call but thts what i did... i have 3 moon snail shells in my 30 gallon community where my convicts lay eggs and in my cichlid its got oyster shells and moon snail shells... non are siliconed or treated besides the bath...

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 02:14

I'll try that, if the CC does not rise by tomorrow.

**icer711** 2010-11-16, 07:04

hey protocal... you still have the big piece of drift wood in there? if so they probably why your tank keeps dropping... i ran into that with big pieces i had in a 90 gl... have since pulled them and the tank hold steady

Fern 2010-11-16, 14:34

Yes defiantly go and collect shells! I do that as well.

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 15:58

icer711 wrote:hey protocal... you still have the big piece of drift wood in there? if so they probably why your tank keeps dropping... i ran into that with big pieces i had in a 90 gl... have since pulled them and the tank hold steady

yes, its still in there. i was thinking it is because of that. but no tannins is leaking.
if i pull those woods out, i have no where to keep the plants. man, im stuck!

Fern 2010-11-16, 16:12

Pull the wood for sure!
What kind of plants?

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 16:23

Fern wrote:Pull the wood for sure!
What kind of plants?

java moss, some kind of fern, anubia nana, ref tiger lotus.

Fern 2010-11-16, 16:59

Use cotton sewing thread and tie them to a rock, they will anchor by the time the thread rots away. Pours rock works better. Cotton string is better than fishing line, less chance of a fish getting caught in it.

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 17:10

Fern wrote:Use cotton sewing thread and tie them to a rock, they will anchor by the time the thread rots away. Pours rock works better. Cotton string is better than fishing line, less chance of a fish getting caught in it.

alright, ill get on it now.

**icer711** 2010-11-16, 21:26

protocl wrote:
icer711 wrote:hey protocal... you still have the big piece of drift wood in there? if so they probably why your tank keeps dropping... i ran into that with big pieces i had in a 90 gl... have since pulled them and the tank hold steady

yes, its still in there. i was thinking it is because of that. but no tannins is leaking.
if i pull those woods out, i have no where to keep the plants. man, im stuck!

ja i know but even though there are no tannins the wood naturally lowers the ph.... found out the hard way i had some cool pieces of wood Sad

... let me know how it goes after you take it out i have a feeling thats whats causing it...even though that was a cool looking piece

**protocl** 2010-11-16, 21:56

Ok, took out the plants and wood.
I'll re-test tomorrow.

Fern 2010-11-17, 10:49

If you want the wood to stay waterlogged keep it in water.

**protocl** 2010-11-17, 14:05

PH is still low.

Fern 2010-11-17, 20:14

It will take about a week and a few water changes to get the residual tannins out.
Changing the PH the natural way takes time but that's one reason its a safer way to go, you really don't want it moving even 2 degrees in 24hrs or you will stress the fish

**protocl** 2010-11-17, 20:21

Fern wrote:It will take about a week and a few water changes to get the residual tannins out.
Changing the PH the natural way takes time but that's one reason its a safer way to go, you really don't want it moving even 2 degrees in 24hrs or you will stress the fish

true.

aaronfeeney 2010-11-18, 03:00

I also run aragonite in my canister fiter, instead of the fluval, bio bead things.

**protocl** 2010-11-18, 03:12

well, its day 7!!!!, Ph is still yellow, based on API test tubes.

im about to jump into the 180G and drown myself.
if you guys do not hear from me tomorrow, ive become fish food.

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-18, 04:13

I don't know if other fish stores carry it readily but our LFS has a pH control chemical/powder or some sort that will keep it at a steady rate. It says the rate on the box. I have just glanced at them, never looked too long but knew there were different ones for the different rates. I'm not 100% sure but I believe it was API brand too.

**protocl** 2010-11-18, 04:43

ShortyKiloGyrl wrote:I don't know if other fish stores carry it readily but our LFS has a pH control chemical/powder or some sort that will keep it at a steady rate. It says the rate on the box. I have just glanced at them, never looked too long but knew there were different ones for the different rates. I'm not 100% sure but I believe it was API brand too.

thank you for the help. Smile

I'll check on it tomorrow.

ShortyKiloGyrl 2010-11-18, 04:45

I remember it was in a box that was like the pH test kits that you can buy from API.

Fern 2010-11-18, 09:59

Get a jar of buffer, and slowly dose it up.

Kianna 2010-11-18, 12:30

Whats your PH out of the tap?

Assuming you're using tap water for water changes.....I would start with testing that! IMO 6.0 sounds low for ph out of the tap for our area! If the PH out of the tap is low then certainly some buffering is in order.

Removing the wood was a good idea--wood lowers ph--it'll take several good size w/c to bring it back up though.

It would be helpful if you listed your complete system & schedule.

I think its the 180g right?
Substrate--Bare Bottom ?
Whats the filtration --canister? current media?
Have you tested GH & KH? ---they play a part in a stable PH
Whats your w/c schedule?--how much, how often

Sorry about all the questions and hopefully I haven't asked anything already covered. Very Happy

Somehow I think we're missing something... scratch

Fern 2010-11-18, 12:55

A pic of the tank will also help, sometimes theres something obvious to others that you miss yourself.

**protocl** 2010-11-18, 18:15

Kianna wrote:

Whats your PH out of the tap? 7.5

Assuming you're using tap water for water changes.....I would start with testing that! IMO 6.0 sounds low for ph out of the tap for our area! If the PH out of the tap is low then certainly some buffering is in order.

Removing the wood was a good idea--wood lowers ph--it'll take several good size w/c to bring it back up though. Already removed the wood. re-tested the water, still low. the bucket i housed the wood, the water was about the same with or without housing the wood.

It would be helpful if you listed your complete system & schedule. just driftwood, anubia, java moss and i forgot the other plants title. 2 marineland 300 watt heaters, fluval fx5 and a rena xp4 canister. i usually WC 40% every 3rd week, clean out a canister the next day and then the other canister the following day.

I think its the 180g right? yes.
Substrate--Bare Bottom ? bare bottom.
Whats the filtration --canister? current media? biobale, biomax rings, water polishing pads.
Have you tested GH & KH? ---they play a part in a stable PH no, i dont have a test kit for those, but im sure the KH is real low.
Whats your w/c schedule?--how much, how often well, ive done 4 WC within this week now. i used to WC every second week, bu since the weather turned colder, its at the 3rd week.

do you guys think, its the water polishing pad?, that is making the PH lower?

Sorry about all the questions and hopefully I haven't asked anything already covered.

Somehow I think we're missing something...

**protocl** 2010-11-18, 18:16

Fern wrote:A pic of the tank will also help, sometimes theres something obvious to others that you miss yourself.

you mean a picture of the inside of the tank? hmmm, nothing has changed ever since i first set it up. i did not add any new items inside.

Kianna 2010-11-18, 19:13

It's not the polishing pads. IMO you got something else going on. Whats your stocking in the tank? Nitrates would be helpful also to see if you're water changes are large enough often enough.

**protocl** 2010-11-18, 19:19

The nitrates never exceed 20ppm.
I have pre-filters over the intakes, thus the canisters to not facilitate poop.

Kianna 2010-11-18, 19:24

Oh and I run bare bottom tanks all the time. I also have a ph of 7.5 out of the tap and never a ph crash with regular weekly water changes. My first guess is the wood was for sure a problem especially with w/c only every 3 weeks. You're really gonna need to maybe 30-40% a week for the next several weeks to see if the wood was the problem which I suspect it is. I guess I should ask how big is the wood too?

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