Questions for seasoned pressurized CO2 users

I've been running this pressurized paintball CO2 setup for about a month, maybe a little longer. I had problems to begin with but I believe I've sorted all that out.

How long does your high pressure co2 last? (days/oz?)

How do you best dissolve the co2?


My first full 24oz tank seems to have only lasted about 4 weeks, i thought it would have lasted longer. I run about 20bpm.
The Red Sea kit has a co2 reactor supposedly capable of dissolving 180bpm, but I routinely see large bubbles gurgle out of it. I've tried different configurations and placements.

Just curious to see if this is reality or if I'm still facing complications. I really didn't think I'd be only getting 1 day/oz.

Well alot of ppl here uses ceramic co2 diffuser with their pressurized co2 systems.

That's not abnormal. If that's a paintball tank it may not be full when you get it. From my experience when I played paintball the fillers of those tanks were notorious for not being able to fill them correctly. the trick is to weigh the tank your self empty and full to make sure your not getting cheated. You are also going to lose pressure and co2 in all the airline tubing as they off gas through the silicone, even the more expensive tubing labeled for co2 lines. Bubble size is the end result of diffusor type and pressure. Smaller bubbles can also be achieve if you push that gas through an impellor or the out stream of a filter. You could also be wasting co2 if your not running it on a timer with a solenoid in conjunction while the lights.

I use a 20lb tank spilt over 6 lines and I get 8-10 months depending how much I want to prune.

Well. I gotta 5 pounder running 30 bubbles per minute 8hrs a day . Its been hooked up for about 4 months amd still going.

Got a 20 pounder with 3 outlets. 1 feeding a reactor at about 30 bpm. And 2 ceramic diffusers running 45-60 bpm. Its on about 12 hours per day. That system had leaks.got them all plugged up and haven't replaced the cylinder for about 4 months now...

Leaks will kill you. Make sure there is none in the lines...

fishNAbowl wrote:Leaks will kill you. Make sure there is none in the lines...

I don't remember where I got this from, but I have it saved on a google doc:

CO2 is toxic in higher concentrations: 1% (10,000 ppm) will make some people feel drowsy. Concentrations of 7% to 10% cause dizziness, headache, visual and hearing dysfunction, and unconsciousness within a few minutes to an hour

---make sure your house ventilation is good, or your system is completely bullet proof.


This leak check is also a function check for Double stage Regulator.
(spray soap water test only for the reachable connection ports, if leaking is inside the regulator, soap water test is useless.
also, someone suggest dipping the whole system in water to test leak, don't even think about it, it is suicide if solenoid is 120V, or you will ruin the solenoid.)

Step 1.
A. Regulator handle completely loose(counter clockwise).
B. Connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure the connection is secured.
C. Turn on the CO2 tank release handle slowly, CO2 inject into regulator, the HP gauge reading should be at 800 psi.
D. Shut the CO2 tank release handle, now the reading on the HP gauge should be 800 psi also.
E. Wait 6 hours, if the reading is the same, first stage is good, go to second step.

If the psi lower but the tank--regulator(soap water test), CGA 320 nipple--regulator(soap water test) and HP gauge--regulator(soap water test) connection ports are 100% no leak, your regulator is toasted--the leaking is inside(leaking HP gauge, punched diaphragm, diaphragm seal broken, or the poppet valve between the first stage and second stage chambers is not completely sealed.)

Step 2.
continue from step one if success, now you have 800 psi of co2 isolated in the first stage chamber.
A. needle valve open.
B. Solenoid valve power off(shut).
C. Turn the regulator handle clockwise to charge the second stage chamber, fill to the regulator default outlet maximum.
D. Turn the regulator handle counter clockwise(completely loose).
E. Release the CO2 in the first stage chamber by turning loose the regulator-Tank connection screw(make sure the co2 tank is closed before you do this).
Now you have CO2 isolated in the second stage chamber.
F. Wait for 5-10 minutes(to ease the second stage diaphragm elastic issue, psi may drop right after the regulator handle turn loose, then it will stay), record the LP gauge psi reading.
G. Wait for 6 hours, if the change of new psi reading is within 1/8+ difference of original reading, go to step 3

If the psi lower a lot after 6 hours, redo step 2, soap water test on every reachable connection port(LP gauge--regulator, regulator--fittings, fittings--solenoid)
if leaking found, fix it

redo step 2.
no leak, go to step 3

if still leak.
Take out the solenoid, seal the outlet port of the regulator(make sure the sealed port has no leak)
redo step 2 without the solenoid.
if no leak, solenoid valve has issue.
if leaking still, regulator toasted.(similar problems as mentioned in step one)


Step 3.
A. connect the regulator back to the co2 tank, charge both stage charmbers(turn on the co2 tank release handle then the regulator handle, outlet psi set to your desire psi).
B. Turn on the solenoid valve.
C. Turn off the needle valve, soap water test, between the ports of solenoid and the needle valve.
D. Turn on the needle valve, soap water test for rest of the hose/NPT/hose barb connections.
E. if leaking found, fix it.

leak test and regulator functional check complete.

Oh haha... I typed that out quick and posted without proof reading. What I meant by that is that leaks will kill you in gas consumption. I was going through 5's and 20's in a matter of days due to leaks. Bronzefighter does have a point though.

It's easy to be foOled in thinking one can put these together like putting together an air pump system together. With an air pump system you don't really think about leaks. All you are interested in is - if it make bubbles. It doesn't matter if a little air is leaking from the check valve connections, nor where you've split lines or at the pump as long as it makes goOd bubbles. With CO2 systems it matters. You can keep cranking it up until you got the output you want and not notice you have a little leak until the tank is gone. However you don't have to keep paying to keep the air going. CO2 you do, and are inconvenienced by the price and having to go get it.

I'm familiar with sealed high pressure systems, just new to using pressurizer CO2 in the fish tank. I must have a leak down line from the regulator, haven't soap tested yet. I'll try to get around to that this weekend. I've submerged the reg. with pressure, that's how I found and fixed the first leak. I guess I haven't checked the line out gauge though.... I'll just have to play with it.

Something must be wrong, at this rate pressurized is going to cost more than my DIY to for CO2

The initial set up with these things are an investment. But these tanks should last a while. I can relate though. I've had issues in the past. Mainly due to leakage in my home made set ups. Good luck anderson_p_r!

26$ swapping empty for a full 20lbs tank. Price as of yesterday at central welding.

It's only $3-$4 for my 24oz cylinder at Sports Authority, but my DIY setup can go 6-8 weeks between recharging. That's why I was a little surprised to feel how light the cylinder had gotten in a month. We'll see how much longer it lasts, but it's still showing 800psi.

I would use a reactor, not a diffuser. Any time you have a bubble, no matter how small, any part of the bubble that makes it to the surface is wasted. In a reactor, the only way out is for it to dissolve into the water. I have larger reactors on two of my tanks that ran about $100, and on my 20 gallon, I have a smaller, cheaper in-tank reactor that was $50-60.

As long as there is any liquid phase CO2 at all, it will show 800 psi. If it ever drops below that, you'll be out soon.

A tank and regulator setup will save you a good bit in the long run, but is a hefty start up cost. Amazon has cartridges for about $0.35/12g. Which is about 38 cartridges per pound of CO2, or $13.20/pound. I pay $17 to fill a ten pound tank. I'm not sure how long it will last - going on about 6 months for my 55 gallon, still not empty.

Finally got around to checking this out. Regulator still good, but the solenoid is leaking like a siv. Leaks are coming from the joining of adapters. I used PTFE on the threads thinking that would be better than teflon. Maybe I didn't use enough? I'll redo it some time this week, but I'm glad to know that I do have a leak. Was leaking about 3bbs. My little 24oz cylinder should last much longer once I fix this leak...can't wait for the next one

Leaks are so annoying anderson_p_r. It's the difference of my 20 pounder lasting 4 days and 8 months. I swear to you though, once you have this set up all patched up and fine tuned you will be happy with the results.

fishNAbowl wrote:Leaks are so annoying anderson_p_r. It's the difference of my 20 pounder lasting 4 days and 8 months. I swear to you though, once you have this set up all patched up and fine tuned you will be happy with the results.