PVC Leak

Well I fixed my first leak just to have another. Just my luck. This leak isn't bad it's just a few drops here and there. I was wondering if I could go around the area of the leak with glue? I went around a couple times last night. I attached a pic. The leak is where the two couplers meet.
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Kind of seems like a lot of fittings glued together in one spot, to give lots of potential areas for leakage. I would have a shut off valve and union right about where you are having that leak issue.

DMD123 wrote:Kind of seems like a lot of fittings glued together in one spot, to give lots of potential areas for leakage. I would have a shut off valve and union right about where you are having that leak issue.

I take it you want me to cut it. I need to cut it as low as I can on that pipe that is sticking out of the bulkhead. How can I do this? I need to be able to glue a coupler to that pipe. The leaking was my fault this time. I went to glue everything and it turned out I was low on glue. I thought I got enough on but it turns out I didn't.

Did you do any shut off valves to be able to shut the tank off from the sump? Then some unions to be able to remove any items quickly for repairs.

I have tried gluing over leaks in hot tub plumbing and it never works. Best is to take it apart and start over. You could try it if it can stay dry no drips for say 10 min+ I would do a thin layer hit it with a hair dryer then apply again. It will either work or not. Spa's are under a lot more pressure so it may work?? Good luck!

Can you plug it from the top and drain the water out to ensure it stays dry awhile??

Between fittings there should at least be an inch for this very reason. Live and learn I guess! I hope you get a handle on that!

The purpose of the glue is not to just hold the 2 pieces together, like super glue. The idea is that the glue breaks down the PVC and allows the 2 pieces to actually become 1. So gluing the leak is a no go. As for the top coupling, you need to take a hack saw blade and start sawing the outside of the coupling from top to bottom, until you are all the way through to the pipe underneath. Then stick a screwdriver in the cut and pry the coupling open. Now because the pieces adhere together, the coupling may break in pieces. No biggy, just get all the pieces off. Then use a sand paper to remove all glue residue. Then redo. And like DMD said, install shut off valves at the top. Your gonna wish you had. Also, this may be a dumb question, but why not just come out of the bulkhead, into a ball valve and then to a flexible 1" or 1 1/4" hose over to your sump?

I hadnt even thought about the hose.... Super easy to work with too.

Sorry it took so long to respond. I’ve been working on the tank. I decided to cut the pipe and start over. Sadly I couldn’t save the bulkhead so I had to buy another. Since buying a new bulkhead I had to redo the return pipe in the tank as well. I used a lot more glue this time.

I do have shut off valves and unions on the pipes that bring the water to the tank. The return line has a check valve so water can’t drain back to the sumps during a power outage. I have had the tank full and the pump off to test everything and everything works. The water in the overflow boxes will drain to a certain point and when the pump is turned on again everything starts buy itself.

Looks good. Cant wait to see it set up!

I bet you want to see my wood . I'll snap a picture.

Jantilla wrote:I bet you want to see my wood . I'll snap a picture.