What Water Supplements Do You Use? CO2?

What do you use to supplement the water for your planted aquariums?

Right now I am using Kent marine Pro-Plant only in both my tanks. They are heavily planted and I just keep adding more. For this exciting experiment in plant care I am just plain old following the directions. I have noticed an 1" of growth per week. It was the most complete all in one liq fert I could find at my LFS and has worked pretty good considering I haven't done anything else. This weekend I am gonna build a CO2 Gen and then we'll see where that gets me. And my plants look great. I am intending to grow my communities nice territories and have been soaking up the info like crazy.

API makes great products and you can find them virtually anywhere.

I dose dry fertilizers KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4 and CSM+B using the Estimative Index method. I started off dosing Seachem NPK but it just got to be too expensive and one pound of dry ferts lasts me for about a year, unlike the Seachem which I was purchasing about every 6 weeks.

I was just reading up on the estimative index the other day. Thought I might want to go that route considering it fits well into my current methods of caring for my communities.

For drys I use the EI method as well, and it works great and for liquid ferts I use half of the recomended ammount of seachems flourish and seachems root tabs every month in my 29 there is a diy co2 system and 110 watts of ligting for 12 hours a day. For my 10 I use seachems excell twice a week at the recomended dosage for the size of the tank and nothing else it gets some direct sunlight for around 3 hours a day and I turn on the 27 watt light for 6 hours a day. I don't use any other ferts because I do water changes only 2 times a year. So fish poo makes up all the nutrients for the plants. And in my barebottom 20 I use excell every other day at the recomended amount flourish every day at the recomended amount and dry ferts after each water change. I do water changes in this tank every other day because I grow out fry in it. It has 28 watts of light on it for 10 hours a day. Every thing works well in all of these tanks.

Digsy wrote:I dose dry fertilizers KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4 and CSM+B using the Estimative Index method. I started off dosing Seachem NPK but it just got to be too expensive and one pound of dry ferts lasts me for about a year, unlike the Seachem which I was purchasing about every 6 weeks.

Wher did you get all your dry fertilizers?

I bought mine from greenleafaquariums.com but I think I've seen KNO3, K2SO4 and KH2PO4 at A Place For Pets.

Digsy wrote:I bought mine from greenleafaquariums.com but I think I've seen KNO3, K2SO4 and KH2PO4 at A Place For Pets.

Thanks

Well... i've never kept any plants but sort of want to. I saw lilydog's post about dirt under the gravel.... I don't think that's a great option for me at this time. So i was just curious about other ideas, setups, tips, etc everyone uses or have used in the past.

When I had my first planted tank, I used Hagen's bubble ladder with a DIY yeast mix. I eventually went pressurized and have a paintball regulator setup on my small tank and a 15lb CO2 tank/regulator on my 105 gallon. I'd never go back to DIY CO2 again. Going pressurized requires so much less maintenance, even if it's more expensive initially.

Digsy wrote:When I had my first planted tank, I used Hagen's bubble ladder with a DIY yeast mix. I eventually went pressurized and have a paintball regulator setup on my small tank and a 15lb CO2 tank/regulator on my 105 gallon. I'd never go back to DIY CO2 again. Going pressurized requires so much less maintenance, even if it's more expensive initially.

Any specific brands?

I use a Red Sea paintball regulator on my nano with 20oz refillable bottles and my big regulator is from aquariumplants.com. I later upgraded my needle valve on the large regulator as the one that came with it was pretty cheap and flimsy. There are several other places online that I would probably go with instead were I to purchase another regulator.

i tried the DIY set up myself and quickly got annoyed/frustrated with the learning curve/maintenance aspect. I picked up a regulator/solenoid,needle valve from Rex Griggs, maybe alittle more expensive than some other options but it's been running for 3 yrs without anything other than a CO2 tank switch out.

I use a 20lber, lasts about 12-14 months (on a timer, not 24/7), 2x 65watt CF's, and a 50/50 fluorite/gravel mix, IE dry ferts.

Merged "What supplements do you use" and "what types of co2 have/do you use(d)" together and made a sticky

I use pressurized co2 with a regulator, metering valve and solenoid I bought on ebay for around $100. However, I need a new solenoid since the one I have isn't rated for continual use. Trial and error is part of the DIY process I suppose.

I'm debating on whether to go with the EI or PPS system. They both have their pros and cons. I'd be interested to know what people using Seattle city water add in the way of elements.

gillt wrote:I use pressurized co2 with a regulator, metering valve and solenoid I bought on ebay for around $100. However, I need a new solenoid since the one I have isn't rated for continual use. Trial and error is part of the DIY process I suppose.

I'm debating on whether to go with the EI or PPS system. They both have their pros and cons. I'd be interested to know what people using Seattle city water add in the way of elements.

glad you posted this, I'm interested to hear what other planted tank folk have to say about the subject

I use EI with dry fertilizers(KNO3, KHPO4,K2SO4, Plantex CSM+B), weekly water change(sometimes when I'm too lazy I may skip some water changes) with water from 164th ST well. Depending on the fish tank I may increase KH with baking soda and GH with Cacl2 and epsom salt or both with CaCO3 or cuttlefish bone.
I use presurized CO2 systems controled either by a pH controler or by timer. For small tank(s) I use Excel instead of CO2.

flo77 wrote:I use EI with dry fertilizers(KNO3, KHPO4,K2SO4, Plantex CSM+B), weekly water change(sometimes when I'm too lazy I may skip some water changes) with water from 164th ST well. Depending on the fish tank I may increase KH with baking soda and GH with Cacl2 and epsom salt or both with CaCO3 or cuttlefish bone.
I use presurized CO2 systems controled either by a pH controler or by timer. For small tank(s) I use Excel instead of CO2.

I take it you use test kits. I experimenting with Potassium sulfate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium nitrate and magnesium sulfate a lot of co2 and a lot of light.

EI means no need for testing. However I use test kits if I suspect something went wrong . The ph is continuously monitored. Also I use a digital TDS meter. The only tank where I often test the waters is the 55 gal planted and CRS tank.

flo77 wrote:EI means no need for testing. However I use test kits if I suspect something went wrong . The ph is continuously monitored. Also I use a digital TDS meter. The only tank where I often test the waters is the 55 gal planted and CRS tank.

do you strictly follow the guidelines for dosage? I find I'm getting good results in my 40g (moderate fish load) with cutting the dose in half, helps to cut down on pruning.

do you dry dose the Plantex or use it in solution?

thanks

clogstonian wrote:do you strictly follow the guidelines for dosage? I find I'm getting good results in my 40g (moderate fish load) with cutting the dose in half, helps to cut down on pruning.

do you dry dose the Plantex or use it in solution?

thanks

Since the targets for nutrients have a wide range I can say I follow the guidelines. However I choose and modify my targets and sometimes that means cutting the dosage in half. I think you did the right thing by cutting the nutrients to a level that's convenient for you and for the plants.
I prepare solution for all nutrients and I dose them according to the targets. This means some extra effort in doing the calculation but it offer me more control and flexibility. And the fish will not try to feed on the fertilizer powder.
For Plantex I choosed a target of .33 ppm Fe weekly and I use DI water to prepare the solution. Of course I don,t folow strictly the target, in some tanks I may dose less or more Plantex.

d'oh, duplication

each litle encapsulated world has it's own unique parameters, my regime works fairly well for me but not without issues; I get the occasional brush algae outbreak a few times a year when I've gotten lazy - I get it under control with Excel and/or nutrient level adjustments. i also have a type of fuzz algae which grows on plant stems and gravel, the chia pet look (dating myself here) from what I've read that appears to be a nutrient inbalance and the plants leach nutrients due to lacking other nutrients . . hey, a certain amount of algae is natural and gives my grazers something to snack on, I count on algae for them actually so I don't want it completely absent.
The one thing I consider my top priority to manage is a hazy I seem frequently, not sure if it's a bacterial type bloom or what but I don't have crystal clear water , not bad mind you but a dull hazy develops, seems to drop off in the evenings when the champagne glass effect takes place.

I also have small issue with algae, mainly thread algae due to overfertilization and high light levels and sometimes GDA, GSA. Also in the tanks where I use sponge filter I have BBA around sponge and hoses due to high levels of O2 and low CO2. BBA is the most annoyng type of algae but since is located in a small area I don't use Excel to kill it because I don't want to destroy the usefull bacteria. However I remove it manually when I have time to do it.

I use flourish excel when I think about it.

I'm trying to start a planted tank. What are my options for adding CO2?

Injected CO2
Seachem Flourish , about once a week.
Potassium nitrate, =.
time release iron supplement, with iron converting properties(?,lol- converts ferric iron to ferrous iron)
Comprehensive carbohydrates,=.
Phosphorous,=
water changes, = (replaces trace elements)
substraight, fluorite (iron supplement, trace elements)

Fish poop and water changes.

Everyone has a different approach. For my 12G I stopped testing parameeters and use a drop Checker for Co2 regulation and let the Plants tell me if they are lacking in any nutrients.

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EI and Seachem for ferts. Not everything is exact but I try to follow this chart I've made. It is definitely a lot of ferts but if everything is in balance with lights, co2, and ferts you shouldnt have any algae issues.

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The fish are fine with all the ferts even the shrimp were breeding up until my recent rescape, which caused an ammonia spike and killed almost all of them off. Stirring up the substrate is a bad idea with shrimps still in the tank.

I got tired of DIY CO2 and have a 5lb tank and aquatek regulator coming. There was a memorial day sale I took advantage of =)

Sale? How much did you get off for the tank? AHHH WAI U NO TELL ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
xD

In my [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] I do no dosing, the dirt and clay pretty much do all the work for me, all I do is an occasional water change.

My [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] I was doing DIY co2 until I got shrimp put in there, now I dose with Excel to grow the phoenix moss in there. This tank also is dirted with clay.

My 29 gallon isn't being dosed and doesn't have dirted subtrate. The tank only has java ferns and java moss in it, so I only do water changes and everything is peachy in there.

My 20 long is dirted with clay and is dosed with Excel. No fish in this one, just have it to grow plant trimmings

Can someone suggest a good iron supplement for the substrate?

binbin9 wrote:Can someone suggest a good iron supplement for the substrate?

red clay

2nd the Red Clay

TFP

I used to run a c02 system I accumulated. maybe at some point ill revisit it. hysteresis was an issue. so was short probe life. both may be traced back to he cheap Chinese probes I was using, but it could also be the monitor. maybe eventually ill play around with it again and figure out what a good offset is to accommodate the lag, but until then the fish are doing fine and the plants are growing like gangbusters...

ive got a mix of new&used fluorite in one tank, lane mountain sand in the other. root formation is a bit better in the sand, since ive done a number of recent thinnings itll be a minute until I can compare growth rates

binbin9 wrote:Can someone suggest a good iron supplement for the substrate?

binbin9,
You might be able to mix a bit of Flourite sand with your preexisting substrate. Just laying the sand on top, eventually it would work itself into your substrate.  What I use is Flourish's new root tabs. They are sold in bulk @ Aquarium Coop. These little blocks last quite a while and seem to work super with all my rooted plants. However, the root tabs are more than just iron supplements, they are a full out root fert.

At the shop we use root tabs in show tanks and flourish comprehensive in selling tanks.

I'm using root tabs, Flourish Comprehensive, and Flourish Excel in my planted tanks. No CO2. Good combination for me. I experience algae when I remove too many fast growing plants at once.

I have mineralized top soil mixed in with red pottery clay as a substrate that's topped with Eco Complete. I also dose with Flourish Excel and Flourish Comprehensive.

Most of my tanks get:

Plantex CSM+B (solution)
Potassium Nitrate and Mono Potassium phosphate (solution)
Seachem Equilibrium
Seachem Alkaline Buffer

Some of my tanks get Flourish Excel
Root tabs

I tried dosing close to EI, but that blew up in my face. Now I dose much less than EI and my plants are pretty happy. The recent Seachem Equilibrium dosing has made a noticeable difference in plant growth in my 29g - less algae and things seem greener.